Wednesday, November 5, 2014

November 5, 2014 - Triangulating on the Onion

Royal Naval Dockyard, Bermuda

This post is still in outline/draft form. Sorry.
 
Bermuda is a fairly flat island, reminiscent of the Bahamas _____miles to the south. It is roughly the same latitude as Charleston, SC. Bermuda is part of the UK, having been colonized by the British in 1609. The Spanish discoverers of Bermuda arrived in 1503 and found an uninhabited island, strategically located.

We met our guide, David Fox, on the pier. He is a Blue Ribbon taxi driver, which means he has completed a special course of study. His cab was a celan, comfortable mini-van. From the dockyard you can see an old fort, a few museums, and  a shopping mall inside the old barracks.

Bermuda is pretty. The water is a brilliant aqua, the color often seen in the Caribbean. All the houses are pastel and covered with stucco. They all have white roofs with an unusual (to me, at any rate) terraced design.  
Within the last month Bermuda was hit by two hurricanes. Hurricane Gonzalo (?) was particularly severe. A lot of the damage had already been repaired according to David, but we saw numerous palm trees lying on their sides, beached or sunken boats, and roofs being repaired.

Hurricane
Colorful houses
white roofs, terraced, collect water, dispose of sewage

Beautiful bays, pink sand beaches, aqua water

Blue Ribbon taxi, David Fox, on time, clean car

world's smallest drawbridge
welcoming arms
moongates


nice houses, not a lot of retail
not a lot of tourism infrastructure, hotels, restaurants, activities 
main industries - tourism, off-shoreinsurance
no large scale agriculture - everything imported, gas $8/gallon
 nice weather
Michael Douglas
 Hamilton, black rum
 
St. George - historic St. Peter's church, stocks and dunking chair - re-enactment, unfinished church
Gibb's Hill Lighthouse - oldest cast iron
Horseshoe Bay Beach
overall imprssions - clean, neat, prosperous, boring, would not go back
1 hr 45 min to Newark

watched two drunk pax being helped back to the ship

Derek FLoyd - Elton John
Darrell Joyce

Bermuda shorts - only one guy

Monday, November 3, 2014

November 3, 2014 - Welcome Back

At Sea

Another warm sunny day, with some clouds in the afternoon. The Captain says it will get rougher tonight as we approach a low pressure area.

I went to the book club to discuss The Rosie Project. I really enjoyed the book. It was interesting, and also quite funny. Ken went to a lecture on the convoy that saved Malta: Operation Pedestal 1942.
We went to the Pub Lunch and then spent the afternoon reading, enjoying the sun, and putzing around.

We were invited to the 5:15 Captain's Circle Cocktail Party tonight. We went down a few minutes before 5:15 and the line went all the way back to the Explorer's Lounge. By the time we got into the room there were no seats and very few places to stand, yet people were continuing to stream in. There didn't appear to be any crew members taking an interest in the situation, so we decided to leave. On the way out we saw the Captain's Circle host, Jeff. I told him that he had invited way too many eople and there were no seats left. He laughed and said something nonresponsive like "There are a lot of parties." 

Big fail, Jeff. Big fail, Princess. If there are too many people, you need to have more parties. It's not that hard. Don't take the lazy way out and hope that people won't show up. This is not how I want to be welcomed back. Grrrr.

Sunday, November 2, 2014

November 2, 2014 - Breakfast with Tiffany

At Sea

I don't know if Tiffany really was her name, but I'm sure it was something trendy like that. Tiffany's grandmother was sitting about 18 inches awy from our table at breakfast. It was impossble to avoid hearing the conversation she was having with a friend. 

Grandma may have been a little confused. Based on her conversation she clearly thought Tiffany was her own child, not her grandchild. And all the other grandchildren, too. She seemed to want to control every aspect of her daughter's life, and she felt herself in competition with the other set of grandparents. The daughter and son-in-law had to spend all of their holidays with her. Her iPad was full of pictures of "her kids," little girls in tutus. "They are always happy if they can dress up, of course." I'm sure she had a husband, but he wasn't mentioned in the discussion.

Bite my tongue, bite my tongue. Not all little girls are happy to dress up. Why should they be expected to conform to society's parameters for how women should look and act? This Grandma wasn't any older than I am. She should know better. And why can't grandma and grandpa, who are retired,  go to California to visit the daughter and grandchildren? Why must their daughter's whole family schlep to New Jersey and spend their limited vacation time all the time to visit Grandma?

Why am I reacting so strongly? Let me think. Oh, yeah. When I was growing up we made the long, boring drive to New Jersey at least twice a year to visit Grandma and Grandpa and aunts and uncles and cousins. It was really boring and tense. Years later I found out that my mother enjoyed these visits less then I did, but as a child I was not really able to tune into the undercurrents. To the best of my recollection, my grandparents were not particularly interested in their grandchildren, or in any children. My brother and I had to entertain ourselves. I remember trying to play solitaire with a pinochle deck. I have no memories of special times with my grandparents. They certainly did nothing to make me feel special or valued. Many, many years later my father told me, privately, that he regretted not taking our family on real vacations. I don't know if he was speaking for my mother. She never said anything to me like that.

Fast forward one generation. I bring my kids to see Grandma and Grandpa. It's pretty much the same story. Grandma and Grandpa want to "see" them, but after 5 minutes they are done. It is pretty clear that they don't particularly like kids. We only spend a couple of days with my parents, and then we fly south and go to Disney World. 

When our son was born my parents did come to Alaska. At this time I still believed that it was possible for them to build some kind of relationship with our daughter. I suggeested they take her to a children's museum. I thought that would be a great way for them to interact. We dropped them off and arranged to meet them at the museum an hour or so later. When we returned, my parents were sitting on a bench in the entryway and our daughter was running around inside the museum not bonding with them.

Well, this blog has not gone where I expected it to go when I started writing, but I have a lot that I need to process. If I become a grandmother some day, I want to be able to achieve a good balance between apathy and micromanagement (with none of either).

After _________ at breakfast, we had a very pleasant day. (I am looking for a word that is the opposite of eavesdropping. A word for listening to someone else's conversation even though you don't want to. Overhearing?)

The weather was perfect and the seas were calm. We spent a lot of time sitting on our balcony reading. 

Ken went to a lecture: Midget Submarines and the Attack on the Tripitz. (Tripitz might be a great name for a website. "Plan your next vacation on Tripitz.com." Actually, I think there is a site called "Tripit.") I went to Cruise Critic meeting for people interested in going to New Zealand. One woman there lived in New Zealand, and several people had been there and came to share their experiences. It was not what I woul call an informative meeting.

Before dinner we went to see the production show, What a Swell Party. I really like all the costumes and choreography in this show, even though the music predates me a little. At dinner we were taken to a table occupied by three older people who pretty much ignored us and each other. It was like going to a funeral. After a few minutes we decided not to endure another awkward, strained dinner with people we who didn't get the point of sharing a table. We have never walked out on a dinner table before, and it's a little awkward (and probably rude), but it's our vacation and we have suffered through enough tedious dinners already. We were going to go upstairs to a different dining room, but the hostess snagged us on the way out and said she would give us a different table. I hope the first table didn't see us going to the second table. The second table turned out to be very nice. We had a very lively conversation with nice people.

Saturday, November 1, 2014

November 1, 2014 - SAR Mission!

At Sea

Today was pretty uneventful until about 5:00 pm. We had been sitting out on the balcony enjoying the balmy weather. The sea was almost flat and it seemed as though the ship was just floating along idly, making no wake.

Right after Ken commented on the slow speed the ship was maintaining, the Captain came on the speaker system to make "an important announcement." Except for the daily noontime report and announcements prior to leaving a port, this Captain doesn't make an announcement unless it is important.
The Captain said that about an hour ago two ladies had reported to a crew member that they had seen flares on the starboard side of the ship. The captain asked that the two unknown ladies report to the Purser's Desk as soon as possible. He also said we were turning around to go back toward the area where the flares were seen.

Even though we are on the port side of the ship, just a few minutes later many men could be seen standing on their balconies peering through balconies. We watched as our ship turned around and the we began to sail away from the sun.

A bit later the Captain announced that more than 2 passengers had seen the flares and he thanked everyone for their help.

We went down to dinner. Everyone was talking about it - in the elevators, in the hallways, at dinner. Everyone had to recount all the different cruises they had been on when the ship had to turn around. After these stories had all been told, people started telling each other about every rescue incident they had ever read about.

Finally, during our dinner, the Captain announced that they had a satellite photograph and had been able to determine that the objects sighted had been two orange buoys and we were returning to our original course.

I realize there are a couple of things here that don't make sense. Why did it take an hour for the messsage to get to the Captain?. If it got to him faster, why did it take an hour until he decided to turn around? How do you mistake a buoy for a flare? Where did the photo come from? I didn't hear the last announcement very well due to dining room clatter, so maybe I missed something.

So now, let's rewind and go back to the exciting day we had before dinner. In the morning we went to a lecture by David Russell entitled A Destroyer at War. It was about HMS Express during WWII. The lecturere had a family connection to the ship, so that made it a little more interesting, but I am not as fascinated by WWII history as Ken is.

Later on I went to a talk called iPad Tips and Tricks by Dan, the Assistant Cruise Director. It was surprisingly crowded. There wasn't even standing room. I didn't realize so many people on the ship had iPads. Dan shared some very useful tips and I am glad I went even though I had to stand up for almost an hour.

After dinner we went to An Evening with Derek Floyd. He was given a larger venue for this show. I liked his performances in the more intimate piano bar better. We got there 30 minutes before the show and got the last two seats. I'm not willing to go to very many things more than 30 mintes early, ven with my Kindle. they originally had him scheduled for two shows, but cut it back to one, thus creating the crowding problem.

Finally, we went to a performance by Jennifer Fair, an opera singer. We have seen her on before, on an earlier cruise, and we remembered that her show was very good. I think the show we saw this time was the exact same show, but it was a good one, so it was nice to be able to see it again. She has the ability to bring opera down to the level of people who have never been to the opera. For example, before singing O Sole Mio, she talked about Elvis Presley and his rendition of It's Now or Never. She also alternated operatice pieces with popular music such as Think of Me from Phantom of the Opera and Leonard Cohen's Hallelujah. 

By the way, the weather has gotten very nice and the sea is calm. It's so relaxing.

Friday, October 31, 2014

October 31, 2014 - Ashore in the Azores

Ponta Delgada, Azores

Sailing in to Ponta Delgada it looked as though all the buildings were white. As we got closer we could see that most buildings were in the customary Portuguese style of white-washed walls with tile roofs. Often buildings were trimmed with volcanic rock. It was a very neat Mediterranean look.
The Azores were discovered by the Portuguese in 1444, although there is evidence that the Greeks, Viking, Irish, and Arabs may have visited centuries earlier.

On shore we met our tour guide, Rui Medeiros of Azores Private Tours, and driver, Ricardo. There were 13 in our private tour group and we had a 15-passenger bus. Our group included a man in a wheelchair and a woman with a walker.

Our first stop was a pineapple "plantation." We were told that pineapples were currently the major agricultural industry in the Azores, along with tea. The pineapples in the Azores are grown organically in greenhouses. They take two years to mature here - about 6 months longer than in more tropical climates where they can be grown outdoors. They are a little bit smaller than the pineapples from Brazil, Hawaii, etc. They cost about €5-6 in a local market. It is not cost effective to export them. 
After the tour of 3 small greenhouses, we were given "free time" in the gift shop. It was a very small place. We could taste such concoctions as pineapple mustard, pineapple chutney, pineapple marmalade, and pineapple liqueur. What I tasted wasn't that good. They also sold crappy souvenir merchandise at inflated prices and stuff that looked like it came from the flea market at the senior center. All of this merchandise was crammed into a tiny shop with aisles so narrow you could barely pass. A large motor-coach full of tourists arrived right before we left and I wondered how they were all going to fit into the cramped, crowded gift shop.
Artsy shots taken near pineapple plantation
The next paragraph is a bit of a rant, so feel free to skip it.

Mr. Wheelchair was taken in first and parked by the food samples. This effectively blocked the aisle and no one could get by or taste the samples or look at anything in the store. Now, I am happy to accommodate people with disabilities, and I am happy to let them have the front seat on the bus, so they don't have to walk far. But they are no more entitled to be rude or oblivious than anyone else. Instead of always having to be the first one off the bus and holding up everyone else while they slowly get off, maybe they could let everyone else off first. If they are not able to enter the greenhouse with the rest of the group, maybe they could position themselves somewhere other than right by the door if they wish to carry on a loud conversation while our guide is talking. And maybe they could just be a little bit more aware that they are blocking the way for the whole group. Finally, being old does not automatically entitle you to special status. Most of the people on this cruise are old. 

End of rant

Upon reflection, after the tour was over, I realized the following:
          1. The pineapple plantation wasn't very interesting.
          2. The gift shop was even less interesting.
          3. I very much doubt that pineapples are the major crop in the Azores. The so-called plantation we visited seemed to consist of about 5 small greenhouses. We saw no other greenhouses during our drive around the island. Maybe we just didn't go to the right part of the island. The port guide says there are thousands. 
          4. If they don't export pineapples, and if they are fairly expensive and are considered a special treat, how can they be a "major" crop?

Conclusion: This was all a ploy to get us into the horrible little gift shop because it was far away from the main shopping areas. We were taken there first so that we wouldn't have a chance to see prices elsewhere and figure out that their prices were jacked up. Pineapples are not the major crop.

Except for this stop, our tour was fantastic and Rui was an excellent guide. Many other tours also stopped at the pineapple plantation, so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt. The economy is very bad at this time and you gotta do what you gotta do.

For the rest of our tour we drove around the island and stopped at several scenic lookouts. The Azores are volcanic and that defines the landscape. 
 
I don't know what it is
 
We visited an area called Sete Cidades (Seven Cities). This refers to six craters located inside a very large seventh crater.
One of the six craters in the foreground. The mountains in the background are part of the seventh crater. It's huge!
Also found inside the large crater are the Twin Lakes - one green and one blue. 
The Twin Lakes
The Green Lake and the Blue Lake
Everything is lush and verdant. It's not particularly tropical, though. 

We stopped in a small village inside the large crater for coffee and pastry. It seemed like Paradise. 
Peaceful church inside the crater

Between each stop, Rui gave us information about life in the Azores. The unemployment rate is high - about 27%. (As with Samoa, the number of Azoreans who have emigrated is about 3 times the number living in the Azores.) But you wouldn't know the unemployment is so high from looking around. Everything is very well-tended and there is very little evidence of poverty. There is very little trash lying about, and very little graffiti. We didn't see a lot of men standing around on street corners. 

We did see many neat, comfortable, freshly painted homes with carefully maintained yards. We saw lots of neat green pastures with dairy cows grazing in them. We saw schools where the children were wearing Halloween costumes. Well-maintained roads. Late-model cars. Parks and picnic areas. Pride of place.

And hydrangeas everywhere. They lined the roads on both sides. They formed the hedgerows between fields. They decorated gardens. They decorated parks. Mostly, the hydrangeas were blue, but we also saw pink, purple and white hydrangeas. They are very sensitive to the pH of the soil and this determines their coloration. The hydrangeas were already past their peak. I would love to have seen it earlier in the season.

There was an obnoxious woman on our bus who was a heavy smoker. She made only a token effort to stand out of the way while she smoked. Every time she got back on the bus she reeked of smoke. At one of the scenic overlooks we stopped at I watched her go over to a hydrangea bush and I knew what she was going to do. She broke one off. I couldn't believe anyone would do that, but if someone in our group was going to do it, she would be the one I would bet on. Then she tried to tuck it behind her ear. Of course, it is a huge blossom on a thick woody stem and it wouldn't stay put. I could have told you that in advance. Other people admired her flower. Apparently they saw nothing wrong with going to a foreign country and picking flowers. I don't care if they were growing wild.

One of the reasons the Azores look so unspoiled is probably the lack of tourism infrastructure. Our ship was the tallest man-made object in Ponta Delgada. It's just a little too far away from everything to become a major tourist destination.

After the tour we walked around the city center a little. It is a lovely place with the typical Portuguese construction style that seems so suited to this island. There are a number of shops. Most of them are not tourist shops. There are some statues and a beautiful old church. The Azores are so lovely.
 
 
  
A local yarn shop is ready for Halloween
  Meanwhile, back on the ship . . .
Back on the ship we enjoyed dinner, went to listen to Derek Floyd, and watched passengers wearing Halloween costumes.
Could I have a pumpkin spice latte, please?


Thursday, October 30, 2014

October 30, 2014 - Game Time

At Sea

It's nice to have a day at sea to relax. It's amazing how fast the day goes by even when you are doing nothing. But it is regenerative. When you are at sea, your world is reduced to a very finite world. There are very few "shoulds" and "ought to's." (Is that grammatically correct? Why would "to" have an apostrophe but not "should?" I ought to look that up when I get home.)

As I was saying, your world becomes finite. No chores, no shopping, no cooking. No mail to deal with. o e-mail to deal with. No unfinished projects triggering guilt (like a quilt). No board work. No bored work. No stress.

I started the morning at the Knitters and Knatters Get-Together. (Don't ask me what a knatter is.) I had made several Candy Corn Coffee Cup Cozies for Halloween and I wanted to weave in all the ends so as to finish them off before Halloween. That is the boring part, so I hadn't been working on them diligently. The knitters and knatters (about 20 of them) were a nice group of ladies and the time went by quickly and was not boring at all.

Today's lecture was Sink the Bismarck! I remember the song, but I really didn't know anything else about the Bismarck, so it was an interesting presentation.

The two of us spent some time sitting on our balcony enjoying the lovely warm sunshine. We saw an airplane and one other ship. The sea was calm and flat and went on forever, it seemed. (Finite world, remember.)

Next, we went to a lecture on the sinking of the Bismarck. It was filled with interesting anecdotes. Why can't I remeber one to put in my blog? DId I take a little nap?  We had a light lunch in the Internationl Cafe and sat in the atrium people-watching and working on my blog. On this segment of the cruise it is harder to play Guess Who Is British. But there are many other possibilities. Guess Who Hasn't Bought New Clothing in 20 Years. (Usually men, but not always.) Guess Who Hasn't Been to the Optometrist in 20 Years. (This is getting harder now that large lenses are coming back in style, but I'm certain Mr. and Mrs. Magoo on the other side of the room don't have those gigantic glasses because they are stylish.) Count the Men Wearing Gold Chains. (Self-explanatory.) Who Has Had Some "Work" Done? And for women: Who Has the Same Hairdo She Had in High School?; for men: The Combover World Championships. If you don't want to have to keep track of all these different games, there is the one-size-fits-all game: Don't You Have a Mirror in Your Room?

We had an awkward dinner with a Canadian couple and a French couple. The French Couple spoke much better English than I can speak French, but it was still hard to have more than a superficial conversation with them. The Canadians (from British Columbia) spoke to the French couple and to us as though we were children who could not understand English (loudly and slowly). 

It soon became apparent that they both had the same philosophy of touring, and it was the opposite of ours. Ours is: research, plan, learn, get as much as possible out of your visit. Their approach to travel is: show up, wander around, do what the "locals" do (whatever that means). They don't do tours. They get off the ship, find a taxi, and just have the driver drive them around, or take the local bus. It works for them and they have a good time doing that. I think they miss out on a lot. But I didn't want to stir the pot, so I didn't say anything while they went on and on about what savvy travelers they were. The Canadians had also mentioned that they were visiting cousins in London who told them where to go, so it's not like they just wandered around London with no plans, despite what they would like to think.
I embrace being a "tourist," engaging with a tour guide who, in many cases has studied for several years and passed a licensing exam, and trying to understand the country by learning about its history, art, and natural history. Enough of that. You have to approach it in the manner that suits your personality, and what works for me might be tedious for someone else.

Back on the ship we had a pleasant evening. We went to a production show called Boogie Shoes. We had seen it a year or two ago, and on seeing it again were reminded that it wasn't one of the better Princess shows. It was very disjointed. There was no theme at all. Some of the numbers were annoying - bright lights shining in your eyes, or shrill singing. But it wasn't so bad that we walked out.

After dinner we went to listen to Derek Floyd again. A nice way to end the evening.

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

October 29, 2014 - 'Tis Bon in Lisbon

A great day! Beautiful weather! Beautiful Portugal! A terrific tour with Madalena from Spain Day Tours!

The day started with a sail-in to Lisbon. We could see a lot as we sailed under the April 25 Bridge (named after a bloodless revolution in1974 which saw the overthrow of the dictator Salazar): the baroque Jeronimos Monastery, the 16th-century BelĂ©m Tower, the Monument to the Discoveries, and more. It looks somewhat Mediterranean with so many whitewashed buldings with terra cotta roofs. Many buildings have a facade covered with beautiful tiles.

Lisbon may have been founded by Phoencians as early as 1200 BCE. Lisbon was later occupied by Romans, and from the 8th to 12th centuried it was occupied by the Moors. 

Upon arriving at the dock we met our tour guide, boarded our 20-passenger van, and met our driver, Sergio. Our tour started with a drive-by of some of Lisbons' busy squares. Eighty percent of Lisbon was destroyed by an earthquake in 1775. As a result, a lot of the city was rebuilt in the years after the earthquake, giving the city a fairly uniform look - far different from the hodge-podge that is London. Many of the older buildings which survived the earthquake were built in the baroque Manueline style.

aguas furtadas?

Some of the newer buildings in the business district gave the city a very modern and prosperous look. However, in other areas we saw pleasant balconied buildings whose facades were covered with beautiful hand-made tiles. We also passed through areas where the buildings were in disrepair, mildew was evident, and there graffiti marred almost every structure.



Leaving Lisbon, we headed for Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sintra is one of those charming hill towns with narrow winding roads, cobblestone streets, and lots of nooks and crannies to explore. But first, we drove up a wooded mountain to the absolutely stunning Pena Palace, itself a UNESCO World heritage site. To me the palacewas definitely the highlight of the tour.

At 1400 meters, the Palace offers a commanding view of the countryside. Part castle, part Moorish fortress, part Baroque, part Potuguese Romantic, part Manueline - the Pena Palace is an eclectic mixture of styles enhanced with artifacts from all over the Portuguese empire. The original structure was a 12th-century chapel, a 16th-century convent, and an 18th-century monastery.  In 1838 King Fernando II purchased it and began an ambitious remodeling project. The palace continued to be occupied by members of the royal family, as a summer home, until 1910, when Portugal became a republic.  

The palace is painted yellow and red with white trim. The red portions were the private quarters of the royal family; the yellow portions were guest quarters and public areas. There lots of domes and turrets. There were numerous embellishments which echoed a nautical theme, and there were also numerous details which reflected the Moorish history of Portugal.

The palace is surrounded by a huge wooded park containing trees imported from all over the world. Apparently the surrounding mountain had been treeless, and the king planted thousands of trees to turn the hillsides into a forest.

We saw perhaps 20 rooms inside the palace. They all told a story. Some were tiled with Portuguese-Arabic tiles.
Some were painted with trompe-l'oeil designs. Some reflected the height of Baroque interior design. The bathrooms were state-of-the-art for that time, as was the early-model telephone.


Afterwards, we descended the mountain to the town of Sintra where we were scheduled for some free time. Madalena recommended a bakery where we should try a pastry called travesseira. We went to the small crowded bakery and ordered one tuna crepe, one chicken crepe and two travesseiras. The crepes were excellent. The pastries were good, but not as good as the build-up. We wandered around past cork shops and port wine shops and bought a few small souvenirs.

We proceeded down narrow, winding roads toward the coast. We stopped at a lighthouse at _____, the westernmost point of continental Europe. We continued to follow the coast back to Lisbon, passing through Cascais and Estoril. 

We drove by the Beautiful Tower of Belem and the Institute for Unknown Things. It's not a UFO museum, but a place where scientists search for cures for diseases and other scientific unknowns.
Our final stop was the Monument to the Discoveries. This is a large Art Deco memorial to Henry the Navigator, Henry's mother (the only woman) and 31 other men who played important roles during the Age of Portuguese Expansion. The Portuguese are very proud of the leading role played by Portugal in the "discovery" (from the European point of view) of more than half the world.

Upon returning to the ship we had to stay on our bus until Madalena could take a selfie with the 18 of us and the bus driver. Then she hugged each of us goodbye as we left the bus.

After dinner we went to hear Derek Floyd, the piano bar entertainer. Tonight he was doing "Beatles Night". He started out with a Beatles Name That Tune. Ken and I teamed up with DIck and Pat and we won! For our prize we got to pick among various Princess tchotkes - a keychain, a carabiner, a magnet clip. We chose the magnet clip.