Sunday, October 26, 2014

October 26, 2014 - Is There Anything Out There?

Le Havre, France

"Is there anything out there?" asked a fellow passenger shortly after Ken and I returned from our tour.

The answer is: Yes . . . France.
The answer is: Yes, you idiot. Why did you come on this cruise?
The answer is: Yes. Now go back to America and stay there. You are an embarrassment.

I have just about had it with rude and ignorant behavior. What a difference a day makes. I want the Brits back. I'm not going to dwell on all the specific things that happened today. I am just going to say my little serenity prayer from my South America blog.

We docked in Le Havre today. There's not much to see here. It is an industrial city. Much of it was bombed out in WWII, so there isn't very much of historical interest. The stuff they built right after the war is ugly and utilitarian. But this didn't make the passenger's question any better. There are still restaurants here. There is still culture. There are still things to see. And Le Havre is only 15 minutes from France.

Le Havre is not far from the Normandy beaches. It is even closer to Rouen. A day trip to Paris is doable.

Honfleur
Normandy Bridge
fshing port

St. Catherine church - 15th and 16th century  built by shipwrights, wood, bell tower


Eugene Boudin, Claude Monet
old prison, lots of half-timbered buildings and slate roofs


St. Etienne 14th-15th century oldest church

cider and Calvados, not wine
guide Majid
free time - flea marke tin Salt warehouse, patisserie - fabulos pastry, shops - all the same stuff
dog doo-doo on the cobblestones, shopkeepers washing the sidewalks/streets
5/10k race
return via Tancarville Bridge, past thatched roof cottages, castles, abbey, etc

sat on balcony
haircut
Derek Floyd - really good

Saturday, October 25, 2014

October 25, 2014 - Let's Pony Up

Southampton, England

Today was a trunaround day - one cruise ended and another began. We took advantage of our free time in Southampton to see some of the Hampshire countryside. We took a private tour with Steve Perry of New Forest Platinum Tours. We had planned to tour with another couple, but an unexpected illness changed their plans, so it was just the two of us and Steve.

Steve is a professional, knowledgeable, pleasant, accommodating tour guide. He picked us up at the terminal and showed us a little of Southampton before we headed out to the New Forest. There wre a few Titanic memorials here, as this was the home port of the Titanic.

William the Conqueror
national park
ponies, cows and donkeys
heather and clipped grass, trees, oaks, 1000 year old yew tree
verderers and agisters
2 churches, Arthur Conan Doyle, carved stone over 1000 years old
villages, thatched houses, cute cottages, manor houses
Beaulieu, motorcar museum, Top Gear
acorns and pigs




Wednesday, October 22, 2014

October 22, 2014 - Obliviots

At Sea

In a blog from another trip I identified two types of passengers: firsties and homesteaders.

I am here to tell you there is another category: obliviots.

Firsters and homesteaders behave with intentionality. Obliviots . . . not so much. They are clueless.

Obliviots don't know the name of the island they are on.

Obliviots don't know where we will be tomorrow.

Obliviots on a tour don't know where the tour is going.

Obliviots ask questions about something the tour guide has already thoroughly explained.

Obliviots get on the wrong tour bus and don't know it until someone says, "You are in my seat."

Obliviots find it very difficult to get back to the tour bus at the appointed time and don't think to apologize to the 40+ people they have kept waiting.

Obliviots go through security to get on the ship, after four prior ports, and seem ever so surprised when they set off the beeper and are told to remove metal items from their pockets.

Obliviots go through security and then huddle in a group, unaware, right in the middle of the doorway so that nobody else can get past.

Obliviots stop for no reason in the center of a passageway - the narrower, the better. Doorways, too.

Obliviots sit on stairs and block the stairways. Obliviots put their feet on chairs

Obliviots are always in front of you. 

Obliviots are unaware that there is a line (queue for a British obliviot).

Obliviots drop used tissues without realizing it.

Obliviots enter one of the lounges in the middle of a performance and sit near the front and talk loudly so that they can hear each other over the performance.

Obliviots like hard candies, especially during shows. They think that if they unwrap the candies slowly enough, no one can hear it.

Obliviots usually don't know what's going on because they forget to stop talking during announcements.

Obliviots don't know how to keep cabin doors from slamming.

Obliviots don't know how elevators work. 

Obliviots are not able to foresee the consequences of their actions.

In additon to observing obliviots, we just basically vegged out. We watched a little bit of the passenger fashion  show, and later we went to hear solo violinist Craig Owen (not bad), and watch the production show, Disco . . . Blame It On the Boogie. The show wasn't bad for disco music. I didn't like the costumesvery much.


Tuesday, October 21, 2014

October 21, 2014 - Part 2: Like a Cactus in the Desert

Jardin de Cactus

Tribute to Bob Dylan - Chris Ricketts
Craig Owen - first show in theater


October 21, 2014 - LavaTubes as Art

Arrecife, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

wind from Africa la calima
110 volcanoes, 300 craters
Inez Luis
Los Jameos del Agua - former dump site
Jardín de Cactus - old quarry
César Manrique Foundation - former home and studio - five volcanic bubbles
El Castillo de San José - 18th century to defend against pirate attacks, renovated by Manrique in 1975 - International Museum of Contemporary Art
lunar landscape

Monday, October 20, 2014

October 20, 2014 - Ethel Rawitz

I found out my mother died after we got back to the ship today. She was 95. 

This was not unexpected. She had been declining for a few months and her decline in the last month was very serious. She hasn't recognized me for two or three years and I feel like I really lost her some time ago. We were able to see her on October 5, 6, and 7 and we knew it would be the last time.

I think she was an unhappy person. I'm not sure why and I will never know. Over the years many, many people told me she was lovely, sweet, nice, etc. This will always be a puzzle to me. I rarely saw that person. I saw someone who was bitter, jealous, angry, unforgiving, and extremely obstinate. She always had a lot of power over me because of this. She was not a warm, fuzzy person. She was not a hugger.

About 10 years ago the fact that my mother had entered the early stages of dementia was undeniable. The years before dementia showed up were not easy for me, and they probably weren't easy for my mother. I think, now, that some early signs of dementia had already shown up, but were not recognized, because erratic behavior was nothing new. There were always other issues.

My mother began to lose her power over me when dementia began to affect her ability to function and I had to start taking control of various aspects of her life. She hid the dementia from the world, and from me, as long as she could. It was hard to recognize what was going on because her usual stubbornness masked the bad judgment which was an early sign of dementia (at least in her case). Gradually my brother and I came to realize that we had to take control of more aspects of her life as her ability to make appropriate decisions seemed to wane.

First, our taking control was restrained. It took the form of encouraging her to move out of her condo and into an independent living community for seniors. My brother and I took our mother to look at several places. For over two years we took her around to the same places, over and over, while she dithered and stalled. Then it went from encouraging her to insisting. It took almost 3 years in all until she finally agreed to move. We didn't want to take away all of her autonomy, and we didn't want her to change her mind, so we didn't put our feet down when she chose a place that we knew was wrong for her.

Once she was in the independent living facility it was time to tell her she shouldn't be driving. She resisted and we had to take control again. My brother took her car. It had several unexplained dents and scrapes.

Things seemed to be okay in independentt living for a year or so until she ended up in the hospital. I don't even remember what triggered it. I do remember that at this point we found out our mother had been overmedicating herself with Ambien and we had to take control of that situation. (Where she got it from is another story for another time.) We told her she had to move to assisted living and it was not negotiable. At the assisted living facility Mom's medications would be controlled by the staff. This time my brother and I picked the facility, but it would be a couple of months until an apartment would be available.

While she was in the hospital private duty aides had been brought in to watch our mother and help her until her mind cleared. When she was discharged from the hospital she said she still needed the private duty aides, and we believed her. We thought it would only be for a few days. After a week she said she she still needed them. And after another week. My mother had gotten used to having the company and having someone do everything for her and she insisted on keeping the aides. We thought at the time that she really did need them, even though it was costing thousands of dollars a week. It was her money. By the time that we realized we were being had, it had become an expensive lesson. How do you respect someone's autonomy if you think they are making poor decisions? You give them the benefit of the doubt. As this situation dragged on we finally exercised our legal powers and told the nursing company "No more; we want the hours for the aides to start tapering off," and we thought that was the end of it. But it turned out that there had been a miscommunication and the aides continued 24/7. We didn't know this for another week or two. When the bill arrived, more calls were made and the hours for the aides were finally stopped when an apartment in assisted living became available.

We moved Mom to assisted living, and, while that was the end of the aides, it was not the end of having to take control of additional bits of her life. I took all of her financial records, checkbooks, credit cards, etc. and went through everything. I found out that for a couple of years she had been paying a lot of money to a bookkeeper to come in every month to pay her bills and balance her checkbook. I found her earlier failed attempts to balance her checkbook. I found checks to any charity that sent her mail. I found meaningless notes scribbled on the backs of used envelopes. I hired a social worker to check in on her and to advise us on the various issues that had arisen and were likely to arise in the future.

When she had still seemed functional to me, before the independent living facility, she had given me her jewelry for safe-keeping. She said she couldn't wear her rings any more because of arthritis in her fingers. I took the jewelry home with me and kept it in a safe place. When she moved into the the independent living building she demanded that I bring her jewelry back. She said she wanted to wear it (to impress the other people in the building). It was her jewelry, so I brought it back to her, except for the rings, which I knew she couldn't wear. I didn't realize that her judgment was already slipping away. When she was later hospitalized, I was told that she had taken the jewelry to the hospital with her (as if that was a safer place than her empty locked apartment). My brother brought it back to her apartment. When we moved her to assisted living the jewelry was missing. It never turned up.

After going through her finances, I set her up with one debit card and a checking account with a small amount of money in it. I paid all her bills and kept an eye on her other bank accounts and investments. I had all her mail forwarded to me. I got all her tax information ready for the CPA. I made things as simple for her as possible. She used the debit card a few times, but then stopped and never used it again, although she carried her purse everywhere. Eventually I cancelled the card and closed her personal bank account. I met with her lawyer and went over her estate plan. I met with her CPA. I met with her investment advisor. I met with her doctors. I met with the social worker and the assisted living staff.

I visited her about 3 times a year during this period. I would go through her clothing and figure out what she needed and buy it for her. I would take her out to eat at her favorite pancake house.  I arranged a special dinner for her 90th birthday. I listened to her complaints about the assisted living facility, the food, the other residents, the staff, the people at her dinner table. And then I would see her greet all these people with a sweet and delighted smile, and I saw her get the same warm greeting from them. I listened to her talk about friends and relatives whom I always thought she liked and she would tell me she had never liked them. I never heard her talk about my father, who died in 2002.

My mother had a large oil portrait of herself, painted by a semi-famous artist when she had been a young woman. She was quite beautiful when she was younger. It was one of her prized possessions. For several years she had been "offering" it to me. I didn't particularly want it. I always tried to come up with an excuse that wouldn't hurt her feelings: I can't bring it on the plane, I want you to enjoy it for now, etc. In retrospect, I suppose I should have just accepted the picture graciously and acted like I was excited to get it.

A few years earlier my mother had started  to develop a relationship with a first cousin of mine who was living in the area at that time. This cousin had grown up in the Midwest. Her family never traveled to our area and my family never traveled to the Midwest. I had only met her once in my whole life. I don't even know if my mother had met her before this time. If so, it would have been only once or twice.

One day, during the time she was in assisted living, my mother told me she had given the portrait to this cousin, who was delighted to have it. I was delighted because my problem was solved, the portrait would stay in the family, and someone who wanted it had it. I was wrong - my problem was only beginning. In retrospect, it is clear that my mother gave it to my cousin to spite me for not wanting the portrait. No more than a couple of months later I got a call from my mother. She was in a state. She said my cousin had taken the painting and she wanted me to get it back. I knew this wasn't true and I tried to placate her and remind her that she had  given the picture to my cousin. For the next ten to twelve months I would receive angry calls from my mother, at all hours, regarding the portrait. It was always the same: get it back, her niece had tricked her, etc. She was very angry at me for not getting the portrait back (or perhaps for not wanting it). By this time my cousin had moved back to the Midwest. During this period we had practically no communication about any other subject. My mother refused to talk about anything but the picture. There didn't seem to be much of a problem with her memory (although she conveniently forgot that she had willingly given the painting to my cousin). She had latched on to this issue like a bulldog and would neither forget nor let go of her anger.

After about a year she wore me down. I couldn't take it any more. I said I would try to get it back. I contacted my cousin, explained the situation, and asked if she would give it back. I promised her that she could have it after my mother passed away. She agreed, but she was working in another city and was not going to be home for a few weeks. When she did get home she was sick for a while. My cousin said she would be able to send the picture soon, but first she needed to figure out a safe way to ship it.

Right about the time my cousin was ready to ship the picture, I had a conversation with my mother and she did not mention the picture. She was calm and reasonably pleasant. I told my cousin she didn't need to return it. My mother never mentioned the picture again. 

They say that dementia patients remember emotions longer than they remember facts. In retrospect, this may have been a case where my mother's attachment to her picture, her anger at me, and her regret over giving it to my cousin seemed in character with her personality and even now it is not easy to tell how much dementia may have played a role in this drawn-out tantrum.

The assisted living facility did not allow alcohol. It is not a good idea to drink when you are taking a number of medications. Yet every time I visited I would find stashes of vodka (always her favorite) in various places in her apartment. I don't know how she got to a liquor store or how she paid for the vodka.

Things gradually got worse. Mom couldn't remember (or didn't care) what time zone I was in and she'd call me at all hours. One month there were nine 911 calls on her phone bill. She couldn't remember to use a cane and she fell several times. It became more and more clear that the assisted living facility was oriented toward those with mobility issues and wasn't really set up to deal with cognitive impairment. They suggested private duty aides. We tried that, and once again it spiraled out of control.

After 2 1/2 years in assisted living, the social worker suggested that it might be time to move her to a dementia facility. The social worker said it would be better to move her while she was still relatively high-functioning. She would be better able to learn the routines there and find her way around. The staff would like her better if they could get to know her as a person who still had some memories and social graces. And she clearly wasn't doing well where she was. Time to take control again and make an executive decision, with no input from Mom this time.

There was no way she would go willingly. The trick was to get her out of her apartment and get her room in the new place set up with her furniture and clothing immediately, so that when she found out she was moving, there would be a familiar-looking room ready for her. I made a shadow box with photos off her and my father, my brother and me and our spouses, and her grandchildren. My brother took her out to lunch while I orchestrated the move. I hung the shadowbox by the door to her room so that she would be able to remember who had been important to her. After lunch my brother brought her to the dementia facility to "show it to her". We were advised to leave while the staff broke the news to her. It did not go well. 

My brother and I and the facility director had already decided that she should not have a phone after the move. For months she raged every time I called her on the house phone. She told everyone who would listen that I had stolen her fur coat. It was impossible to have a civil relationship with her. I decided not to spend money and time visiting her if she would refuse to see me, or worse, attack me verbally. After almost a year the facility director thought she had calmed down enough for a visit. On the first day of the visit she was sweet and happy to see me. When I went back the next day she was not sweet and not happy to see me. I was her enemy and she snarled at me.

I began to visit her 3 or 4 times a year. She continued to calm down, but she also seemed to be letting go of who I was and who she was. Perhaps she let go of her anger towards me because she began to think I was her niece (a different niece, not the one with the painting). It was clear that she still recognized me as a relative and she seemed happy to have visitors, but her interest in a visitor only lasted a short time. For the past two years or more it has been extremely difficult to interact with her. It was not possible to have a two-way conversation. She didn't want to go outside, didn't want to go for a walk around the facility, really didn't seem to want visitors for more than a short time. Sometimes she would just fall asleep during our visits. 

At first she could ask questions. Usually the same question several times during a visit. One of the most frequent questions was "Where do you live?" Later she stopped asking questions, but would still answer a question or two. When she couldn't answer questions about herself or her family, she could still answer questions like "Do you want to do _______ now?" The answer was usually "no."

When I saw my mother in August this year that spark of recognition in her eyes was gone. She appeared to be frailer and less connected to her environment. I went to Shabbat services in the facility with her. She always used to enjoy services. I sat next to her and she seemed to enjoy being there. She smiled at everyone. When she lost her place in the prayerbook I reached over to turn it to the right page for her. She pushed my arm out of the way with surprising strength and dug her nails deeply into my arm. I guess I had invaded her space. For the rest of the service she sat with her back to me. I knew I was nothing to her. I kept telling myself not to get upset because it was the disease, but I had watched the disease exacerbate many of her personality traits and it was hard not to think of this as who she always was, with some of the filters now removed.

When I saw her in early October she had declined noticeably since August. She was no longer participating in the activities. She was no longer walking. She could speak but was incoherent. She repeatedly fell asleep, or simply withdrew into herself, while I was trying to interact with her.

Dementia is a disease of looking back. You look back and say, "Oh, that's what was going on." You can't always see it at the time it is happening because you don't have all of the pieces of the puzzle. You can't always see it because most dementia patients are very good at hiding their condition from the world, at least in the beginning. You can't always see it because you don't know what to look for, or even that there is something to look for. You can't always see it because sometimes the patient is still being who they have always been.

May she find peace at last.


Sunday, October 19, 2014

October 19, 2014 - Santa Cruz de Tenerife: The Rain in Spain

Are we actually in Spain? I'm not sure, but I think so. There is no doubt that we are in rain.

7:15 am
We are at the dock in Tenerife. They have just announced that the forecast is "partly cloudy" today. At this moment there is a fierce thunderstorm going on. It is raining harder than it does in the shower. It is coming down in sheets.

8:55 am
We go to the dining room to meet our tour group. It has stopped raining!

9:04 am
Someone from the tour office announces that our tour has been cancelled due to the weather. We are offered the choice of a different tour (the Winding Mountain Road Tour) which goes to a national park and volcano, with lots of good views (except that everything is socked in) or a refund. About 3/4 of the people chose the refund. Guess which option we chose. Those choosing the refund were told to go wait at the other side of the room.

9:25
The passengers are getting restless. Why do we have to wait if we are not going on the tour? Finally someone comes over and says the tour price will be automatically refunded to our accounts. Mad dash for the door ensues. Again, why did we have to wait? We go back to our cabin to regroup.

10:00 am
We leave the ship and set out on the alleged 5-minute (you betcha) walk to the town center. 

10:10 am
After 10 minutes we reach the end of the pier. (Again Princess has the berth farthest away from everything.) We spend a few minutes looking at a map. There is a main street running parallel to the waterfront, and we walk along it towards the area where most of the tourist attractions are located. A few minutes later we spot a HopOn HopOff bus and decide to take it if we can find out where to board it. 

10:22 am
We arrive at the bus stop for the HOHO and encounter Queue Man. Queue Man is wearing a red jacket with the bus company's logo. He keeps the line for the HOHO bus extremely well-organized. Whenever a new group of people arrives at the bus stop, they invariably try to crowd around the front of the line. Queue Man looks at them and uses his super powers to instantly determine what language they speak. Then Queue Man gives them a little spiel, in the appropriate language, about where the end of the queue is, how long until the next bus, the likelihood of getting seats on the top, etc. I heard him speak in Spanish, Franch, Italian, English German and Russian. His accent sounded almost perfect in each of these languages. I'm guessing he speaks Portuguese, too.

10:34 am
It starts to spritz.

10:35 am
The bus arrives and the line behaves and everyone gets on without any pushing or cutting in line. Thank you, Queue Man. Merci. Gracias. Grazie. Danke. Spasiba.

10:36 am
It begins to rain harder. The bus driver pushes a button and a tarp rolls out over the top of the bus.

10:40 am
The bus tour begins. We plug our little earphones in and dial up the English channel. (No, iPad, I am not talking about the English Channel. Stop trying to change the subject.) 

10:43 am
It is coming down in sheets now. There is thunder and lightning. We have had to close all the windows. You can barely see out the windows, now - they are covered with raindrops - but we are definitely passing some tourist attractions. 

10:46 am
We notice that the streets are flooded. OMG! Look! The sidewalks are flooded.

10:50 am
Can you see anything? I can't hear. The rain is so loud. Turn up the volume on the English channel. 

10:54 am
OMG! Look! The water is going into that building. Get a picture of that.

10:56 am
OMG! Look! There are waves in the water! I'm amazed the driver is able to drive in this.

11:00 am
The bus pulls over to the curb and the driver comes up the stairs and tells us it is impossible to drive so we will wait here for 10 or 15 minutes. 

11:15 am
The bus resumes its journey, but there is no further narration.

11:30 am
We arrive at a bus stop across the street from the entrance to the pier. The bus driver comes upstairs and says something to the people in the front. Nobody past the first 4 rows can hear him. I go up front to find out what he said. He said the bus would be stopping here, it was impossible drive, the cruise port is across the street, we can wait on the bus, or we can leave.  I told those sitting near me what he said, and then I walked back and told a few other people, and then people iin the back were signaling me that they wanted to know, too. I went all the way back and there was a group of non-English-speaking French tourists who were asking me questions in French. Where is Queue Man when you really need him? I resurrect my high school French and manag to get the message across to them, despite my terrible accent. I wish I had thought to say,"Apres moi, le deluge."

11:40 am
The rain is not letting up. Sitting on a parked bus is boring. The rain reminds me that I have to pee. we decide to go back to the ship and just pretend none of this ever happened. Several others have the same idea. We put on our raincoats. I try to put mine on over my purse, but that doesn't work, so I have to take it off, take my purse off over my head, put the raincoat back on, cinch up my purse so it will be covered by my umbrella, put my hood up, and get my umbrella ready - all in a fairly confined space. We climb down the stairs and exit the bus, popping our umbrellas open as soon as possible. Nothing is said by anyone about a refund. Everyone is probably just thinking "Get me out of here." The street is partially flooded, but I have worn my sandals, so I just wade through it and head towards the ship. It's easy to cross the street because there is no traffic. By the time we have crossed the street we are soaked.

12:00 pm
We have made it back! By the time we get to our cabin we are hardly dripping.

12:03 pm
Ken goes out on the balcony and reports that it has stopped raining.

12:15 pm 
It is raining again.

Things I learned today:

1. The ancient Romans knew about the Canary Islands.
2. The islands were named for the wild dogs that the Romans found here.
3. Canary birds were found here and were named after the islands, not the other way around.
4. The earliest inhabitants were a Stone Age people know as Guanches. Their origins are unknown. They were tall, blond, and light-skinned. They lived in small round houses and caves and had elaborate burial practices. 
5. In 1402 Spain began to colonize these islands.
6. Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the patron saint of wet tourists.
7. Tenerife is the Guanche word for "Place of Much Rain."
8. It only rains 15 days a year here.
9. Someone saw dead rats and giant cockroaches floating in the flooded streets.


OK, I made up 6 and 7, and I overheard 8 and 9. The first 5 came from the ship's "port guide," which is possibly less reliable than Wikipedia.